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2001 Barnard/CBS Essay Contest -- First Prize Winner

Natalie Buchinsky
Bronx High School of Science

A Woman I Admire

I watch Grandma's quick movements at the kitchen counter, amazed at how skilled wrinkled hands can be with a knife and potatoes. It is endless peeling on the holidays; a world of onions, gefilte fish, and brown potato skins. And year after year we ask the same question. For which army is she cooking? One year it is the American, the next year it is the Russian. But never for the German, someone says, and the joke goes sour. Grandma's obsession with cooking and feeding is a universal mystery that cannot ever be understood. She will not sit down to eat herself, of course. Her obligation is to the fish. And the chicken. And the salty, yellow egg soup with a taste worth getting used to. But after all the food has been served and the conversation around the table drifts to things I no longer understand, my eyes stumble upon a lonely lump of clay sitting silently and unnoticed in the seventh-story kitchen. It is Grandma, round and misshapen as if molded by a five-year-old child. Her soft, white hair strangely reflects the kitchen's harsh fluorescent glow as she hunches over a pot's one leftover potato. Not even privileging herself to a knife and fork.

The chairs are occupied by full, bulging stomachs that rumble with laughter and recline as far back as possible in the cramped apartment. But I am no longer interested in how Cousin Stella gained so much weight that Daddy thought she was pregnant. Or how Cousin Melanie only married Eddie because he drove a Porsche. Somehow, I maneuver around the flailing arms, bobbing heads, and entanglement of outstretched feet, and sneak away from the table just as another burst of discordant laughter cuts the hot, stale air. Drawn by curiosity into the calm and quiet of an old-fashioned kitchen, I find a little woman gently rocking back and forth before an open window. A lively breeze fills each crack in the wall with a cool, crisp September air. A string of accented whispers that flows from the small woman's parched lips is accompanied by the rhythm of the refrigerator's soothing hum, and I begin to wonder what it is she thinks about in-between meals.

Hi Ma, I say loudly since she refuses to wear the hearing aid Uncle David got her last year. Startled, the soft lump of clay instantly comes to life as the curves of Grandma's body begin to take on a familiar form in the shape of arms, and legs. I cannot tell if it is the metal stepping-stool she sits on or her worn body that creaks as she frantically struggles to stand. Oh, Nana, my shayna maydelah, she says, and an oddly-shaped smile forms across her face as audacious wrinkles extend it up to the corners of her eyes. She reaches out to grab my hand and I am surprised to feel the roughness of callused palms when the rest of her skin is delicate as tissue paper. My shayna maydelah, she repeats. How are you, my shayna maydelah? I'm good, I tell her, but know it is not enough and I watch as the smile melts upon her face, drooping down to gather at the corners of her chin. Her feather-like eyebrows arch upwards wrinkling the worn skin above her nose and I know she is worried because I am not sitting at the table eating like everyone else. What's wrong Nana, she says. The food is no good? No, Ma, I say. The food is fine. The food is very good, she says loudly, the watery-gray panic mounting in her eyes. You don't like the food? No, Ma, I say. The food is very good. It's very, very good. What, she asks. It's good, I say. But Grandma is not satisfied until I have let her prepare for me my fifth helpings of potatoes, chicken, cooked string beans and cauliflower, and fish. She places the mountain before me on the table, and there is nothing to do but eat. Eat, eat, eat.

Grandma is happy now, and seeing her eyes widen each time I take a bite, I wonder if she can actually see the potato being churned into little pieces inside my mouth, and then pass down through my throat to settle quietly in my stomach. You know I was a famous cook, Grandma says suddenly. You know that I was famous in this neighborhood? Yes, Ma, I know. Sure, she continues; I was the best cook on the whole Lower East Side. Everyone said my chulent was the best there ever was on the Lower East Side. My chulent is good, isn't it. I nod and smile, remembering the time a woman from the neighborhood begged my mom to get her some of my grandmother's recipes. Yes, my grandmother continues. I was beautiful too. Sure. Very beautiful. But that was already before the war. In Poyland, recalls the little old lady with the Polish accent, who pronounces a "y" where there shouldn't be one. And as I peer over the slowly sinking mountain of chicken and potatoes, I watch Grandma slip away for a short moment's time as her eyes begin to wander, her eyebrows flutter and twitch, and her mouth pinches up leaving no distinction between her thin lips and the network of wrinkles covering her face. I imagine she has gone back to Poyland, and I think of a story my mom once told me about Grandma's and Grandpa's wedding day. It took place in a small town in Warsaw, where Grandma was born. She was, supposedly, the topic of gossip in Grandpa's small shtetl because she was a working girl from the city whose money was her own. And, as Grandma had told the story, it was Grandpa who had fallen instantly in love with her, though she had had many other boyfriends. It just so happened that on the day they were to be married, one of those other boyfriends sent Grandma flowers with a letter, telling her not to marry my grandfather and to marry him instead. Ta got very jealous, Grandma would say. And he must have, because I remember my mom telling me he had run off when the letter came.

But suddenly the image of a small village vanishes and I am left staring at a mountain of cold potatoes and a startled old woman who was, like me, thrown back into the yellow kitchen by an explosion of laughter invading from the room next door. Yes, Grandma says with a sigh, picking up where she left off. I was very beautiful. But that was all before the war. I didn't used to look like this. Not like this. But it was all before Hitler, you know. Before I lost everything in the war. You know how I was underground for two weeks, yes? When the Germans were bombing the city? Yes, Ma, I say; but she does not know this is my favorite story. Sure, she continues. Two weeks buried in an old candy cellar. With a priest, you know. A crazy priest, and a woman with a baby. A little baby. And the baby would cry, and cry, and cry. You know this story? Yes, Ma, I know this story; but she does not know I have it memorized and know it by heart. And my sister and me, we dug ourselves out. And the city was burning. Everything on fire. And we had nothing left. My Grandma stops here, her voice trailing off to mingle with the refrigerator hum and the monotone buzzing of sounds behind the wall. But I finish her story, and in my mind I see her climbing over rubble and dead bodies, avoiding the flames, sheltering her head from fallen pieces of wood and metal, and covering her ears from the roar of the German planes. She had been separated from Grandpa when he heard that the Germans were rounding up the city's Jewish men. Grandpa had fled the city, but when Grandma heard that he was alive and waiting for her outside of Warsaw, she decided to follow him, promising to send for her now only living sister when she could. But she and Grandpa were never able to do so, and Sara ended up somewhere in Russia after the war. Mom says that Grandma never forgave herself for leaving her sister behind. She never forgave Grandpa either.

I look up and see Grandma smiling. She is happy because I've finished eating. My shayna maydelah, she says, and moistens her dried lips to kiss me on the forehead. She reaches out to take my plate, and the purple-blue veins striping her arm remind me of narrow rivulets streaming down from an unknown source. Carrying my plate, fork, and knife she shuffles over to the kitchen sink and stands on the tips of her toes to reach the faucet. I begin to think about Grandma's obsession with food. I think about how she survived without very much of it for several years in labor camps and DP camps. I think about how she got a job in a bakery first thing when she came to America in 1949. And I think about the dinner I was just fed, the taste of fish and cooked string beans still lingering on my tongue. Most of the time, Grandma, to me, is simply the old woman who lives downstairs, likes to talk about neighborhood gossip, and listens to the news with the volume turned all the way up. It is hard for me to see past the wrinkly skin and to hear beyond the creaking of old bones. But I am thankful for the stories she has told me. For they allow me to connect my small, old grandmother to a woman I never met but that she once was, and to understand both of them a little better.

I admire my grandmother. But not because she survived the war and the persecution of the Nazis. Much of this survival, I realize, was simply luck. I admire her because she has survived the memories: of a lost sister; a dead mother and brother; and of a dead child, whom she calls Beryl, nisht neboch dalaybt auf tzu vasksn, who never had the chance to grow up. The pain of a torn family did not stop my grandmother from building a new one, and beginning her life again. I admire my Grandma for staying up late to watch a television series about World War II and a biography of Adolf Hitler. For it is true that she had to begin a new life, but she did not try to forget her lost one. Despite its hurt and sadness. It is for this strength that I admire my grandmother.

 

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